An Insider's Guide to Nicosia

Sheridan
An Insider's Guide to Nicosia

Cafés

Here a few of my favorites places to hang out (with coffee and small bites).
Everything inside Prozak was selected or built by the owner Orestes, from the wainscoting made from old fabric bolts to the funky graphic design and lighting. The overall effect is a unique microcosm where the traditional Cypriot cafe (with its selection of homemade food and drinks dictated by law) meets beat San Francisco. Hang out at Prozak in the evenings and you’re bound to catch a local band, art opening (there’s a gallery above) or literary event. If you’re into café culture, don’t leave Nicosia without stopping by.
8 moradores locais recomendam
Πρόζακ. Καφενείο
3Α Medontos
8 moradores locais recomendam
Everything inside Prozak was selected or built by the owner Orestes, from the wainscoting made from old fabric bolts to the funky graphic design and lighting. The overall effect is a unique microcosm where the traditional Cypriot cafe (with its selection of homemade food and drinks dictated by law) meets beat San Francisco. Hang out at Prozak in the evenings and you’re bound to catch a local band, art opening (there’s a gallery above) or literary event. If you’re into café culture, don’t leave Nicosia without stopping by.
Many Nicosians don’t even know this place exists, but Inga has been here since 2006 serving tasty homemade vegan dishes. Tucked away on a quiet lane off Ermou Street in one of the most charming quarters in the Old City, there is no better place to go for a light weekday lunch, coffee or tea. If you’re strolling through the city on foot and need a place to take a break from your travels, Inga’s courtyard is the perfect retreat. Find Inga’s Veggie Heaven next to the Chrysaliniotissa Craft Centre.
9 moradores locais recomendam
Inga's Veggie Heaven
Dimonaktos
9 moradores locais recomendam
Many Nicosians don’t even know this place exists, but Inga has been here since 2006 serving tasty homemade vegan dishes. Tucked away on a quiet lane off Ermou Street in one of the most charming quarters in the Old City, there is no better place to go for a light weekday lunch, coffee or tea. If you’re strolling through the city on foot and need a place to take a break from your travels, Inga’s courtyard is the perfect retreat. Find Inga’s Veggie Heaven next to the Chrysaliniotissa Craft Centre.
To find Apomero (“Out of the Way”), you’ll have to find Mrs. Androulla’s sign on Ermou Street first. Look carefully. Because, if you do find this tiny cafe in one of the tiniest alleyways in Nicosia, Mrs. Androulla’s homemade spanakopita (spinach pie) and portokalopita (orange pie) with vanilla ice cream are heaven on a plate.
Apomero
Polyviou
To find Apomero (“Out of the Way”), you’ll have to find Mrs. Androulla’s sign on Ermou Street first. Look carefully. Because, if you do find this tiny cafe in one of the tiniest alleyways in Nicosia, Mrs. Androulla’s homemade spanakopita (spinach pie) and portokalopita (orange pie) with vanilla ice cream are heaven on a plate.
Mr. Lemonaris’ Tria Fanaria (“Three Lanterns”) Café is the best place to go to get a taste of what life in the walled city of Nicosia is really like: low-key, picturesque and bubbling with local gossip in about fifty different languages. If you’re in the mood for a quiet Cypriot coffee and one of the huge variety of traditional sweets the family brought with them from Thessaloniki generations ago, go on an early weekday afternoon. If you venture there on a weekend, get there early to nab a table.
Tria fanaria
Mr. Lemonaris’ Tria Fanaria (“Three Lanterns”) Café is the best place to go to get a taste of what life in the walled city of Nicosia is really like: low-key, picturesque and bubbling with local gossip in about fifty different languages. If you’re in the mood for a quiet Cypriot coffee and one of the huge variety of traditional sweets the family brought with them from Thessaloniki generations ago, go on an early weekday afternoon. If you venture there on a weekend, get there early to nab a table.
The Kxoffee Project isn't only a haven for coffee drinkers seeking pure beans and expertly prepared brew. It’s basically an open workroom for the city’s creatives. If that's your scene, definitely stop by. With its minimal design and wall-to-ceiling views of leafy Pindarou Street, the Project also offers healthy handmade vegan snacks and sweets.
A κχoffee project
29D Pindarou
The Kxoffee Project isn't only a haven for coffee drinkers seeking pure beans and expertly prepared brew. It’s basically an open workroom for the city’s creatives. If that's your scene, definitely stop by. With its minimal design and wall-to-ceiling views of leafy Pindarou Street, the Project also offers healthy handmade vegan snacks and sweets.

Restaurants

A few places you'll want to try if you're passing through Nicosia
Vino Culture is the city’s go-to spot for wine lovers, tasters and guzzlers. Their wine menu is as good as it gets in Nicosia with down-to-earth prices on select wines-of-the-day. The menu is eclectic with mostly small plate dishes like shrimp tacos and beef hamburger sliders. Try it and you’ll understand why this new-town tapas bar has become an oasis in a city dominated by souvlaki joints and taverns.
16 moradores locais recomendam
Vino Cultura
20 Kyriakou Matsi
16 moradores locais recomendam
Vino Culture is the city’s go-to spot for wine lovers, tasters and guzzlers. Their wine menu is as good as it gets in Nicosia with down-to-earth prices on select wines-of-the-day. The menu is eclectic with mostly small plate dishes like shrimp tacos and beef hamburger sliders. Try it and you’ll understand why this new-town tapas bar has become an oasis in a city dominated by souvlaki joints and taverns.
Pantopoleio has been serving a consistently fresh and varied menu of Greek dishes since it opened its doors. From fresh fava bean dip and goat cheese panna cotta to perfectly grilled local fish, Pantopoleio’s dishes are best enjoyed with local wines. In the summer especially, al fresco dining on a breezy Nicosia night is the perfect antidote to the crazy summer heat. Service is great and, whether you ask for it or not, you’ll always leave with a shot of mastica on the house.
Pantopoleio Kali Orexi
38 Metochiou
Pantopoleio has been serving a consistently fresh and varied menu of Greek dishes since it opened its doors. From fresh fava bean dip and goat cheese panna cotta to perfectly grilled local fish, Pantopoleio’s dishes are best enjoyed with local wines. In the summer especially, al fresco dining on a breezy Nicosia night is the perfect antidote to the crazy summer heat. Service is great and, whether you ask for it or not, you’ll always leave with a shot of mastica on the house.
The Syrian Friendship Club used to be the only place you could find good Syrian food in Nicosia. Now well into its second decade, it’s been joined by a few others, but it’s still the reigning champ for Syrian small dish cuisine. Plenty of seating makes reservations a snap. Vegetarians have the option of eating meatless.
Syrian Arab Friendship Club Restaurant
17 Vasilissis Amalias
The Syrian Friendship Club used to be the only place you could find good Syrian food in Nicosia. Now well into its second decade, it’s been joined by a few others, but it’s still the reigning champ for Syrian small dish cuisine. Plenty of seating makes reservations a snap. Vegetarians have the option of eating meatless.
The Gym was at the vanguard of the new wave of restaurants that hit Old Nicosia in 2012, bringing fresh gastronomic and design delights to the traditional, tavern-heavy dining experience we were used to. Hip, impeccably designed and multi-use—it’s a bar, café and restaurant at different times of the day—the Gym continues to uphold its title of reigning champion of trendy, refined dining in the Old City. Because it’s so trendy, if you plan on actually eating there (and not basking in its coolness from Avo’s Lachmajoun Paradise across the street) book ahead.
14 moradores locais recomendam
The Gym
14 moradores locais recomendam
The Gym was at the vanguard of the new wave of restaurants that hit Old Nicosia in 2012, bringing fresh gastronomic and design delights to the traditional, tavern-heavy dining experience we were used to. Hip, impeccably designed and multi-use—it’s a bar, café and restaurant at different times of the day—the Gym continues to uphold its title of reigning champion of trendy, refined dining in the Old City. Because it’s so trendy, if you plan on actually eating there (and not basking in its coolness from Avo’s Lachmajoun Paradise across the street) book ahead.
Skinny Fox took Nicosia by storm in 2016 with its truly great, exquisitely prepared European fusion cuisine and hipness. Since then it’s become the place to go in the new town for foodies and gastronomes—if you can find a table. It’s not cheap, but it’s well worth the money. Book ahead.
10 moradores locais recomendam
Skinny Fox Restaurant
14 Menandrou
10 moradores locais recomendam
Skinny Fox took Nicosia by storm in 2016 with its truly great, exquisitely prepared European fusion cuisine and hipness. Since then it’s become the place to go in the new town for foodies and gastronomes—if you can find a table. It’s not cheap, but it’s well worth the money. Book ahead.
Added this as an afterthought, but it's probably my favorite place in Old Nicosia. It's cute, low-key, and the food (Greek, not Cypriot) is delicious. Try the fresh fava dip, feta in phyllo and honey, and definitely try the grilled octopus. Maybe stay clear of the homemade wine. If you want a spot outside (better), make a reservation. They fill up.
Tsipouraki Mezedaki
1 Οθέλλου
Added this as an afterthought, but it's probably my favorite place in Old Nicosia. It's cute, low-key, and the food (Greek, not Cypriot) is delicious. Try the fresh fava dip, feta in phyllo and honey, and definitely try the grilled octopus. Maybe stay clear of the homemade wine. If you want a spot outside (better), make a reservation. They fill up.

Tavernas

Like restaurants but for heavy-duty eaters.
Loxandra offers one of the best and tastiest menus of Greek small plate dishes in the heart of the Old City and it’s totally laid-back. Legend has it that Loxandra herself brought her recipes with her from Smyrna. Whether true or not, you’ll definitely find some delicious dishes from the mainland here, like their soutzoukakia (meatballs) in red sauce with mixed peppers and their crispy croquettes made from Kefaloteri cheese.
Το στέκι της Λωξάντρας
65-69 Faneromenis
Loxandra offers one of the best and tastiest menus of Greek small plate dishes in the heart of the Old City and it’s totally laid-back. Legend has it that Loxandra herself brought her recipes with her from Smyrna. Whether true or not, you’ll definitely find some delicious dishes from the mainland here, like their soutzoukakia (meatballs) in red sauce with mixed peppers and their crispy croquettes made from Kefaloteri cheese.
Is Aegeon the best tavern in the Old City? Many say yes. Regardless, Aegeon definitely has two things going for it. You get to dine in a gorgeous inner courtyard nestled in among the quiet backstreets of the Taktakalas neighborhood. And their food is fresh, local and always good. Until fairly recently customers could also count on a personal greeting from Aegeon’s owner, a garrulous, bearded, batty figure whose bookstore of the same name used to be housed in the foyer. Check for live music.
8 moradores locais recomendam
Αιγαίον
40 Ektoros
8 moradores locais recomendam
Is Aegeon the best tavern in the Old City? Many say yes. Regardless, Aegeon definitely has two things going for it. You get to dine in a gorgeous inner courtyard nestled in among the quiet backstreets of the Taktakalas neighborhood. And their food is fresh, local and always good. Until fairly recently customers could also count on a personal greeting from Aegeon’s owner, a garrulous, bearded, batty figure whose bookstore of the same name used to be housed in the foyer. Check for live music.
While Aegeon may serve the best tavern fare in Nicosia, if you take a quick taxi drive to Engomi, Plaka Tavern might offer a truer Cypriot experience: a never-ending supply of dips, local comfort foods and meats no mortal could possibly finish in two sittings. By their own estimate, Plaka serves thirty dishes with its "meze". In the spring and summer, you can catch live music and enjoy al fresco dining.
Plaka Tavern
6-8 Archiepiskopou Makariou III
While Aegeon may serve the best tavern fare in Nicosia, if you take a quick taxi drive to Engomi, Plaka Tavern might offer a truer Cypriot experience: a never-ending supply of dips, local comfort foods and meats no mortal could possibly finish in two sittings. By their own estimate, Plaka serves thirty dishes with its "meze". In the spring and summer, you can catch live music and enjoy al fresco dining.

Bars

Like craft beer and cocktails? Try these places.
Do you like IPAs? Howling Wolf and Johnny Cash? You’ll love Brew Fellas then, a one-of-a-kind, hole-in-the-wall pub on the Green Line that serves as the city’s craft beer ambassador and one of its only vendors. If you don’t like pickled eggs and peanuts, then order some real Mexican from across the street. They’ll deliver right to your table. Opens at 6 in the evening (pre-pandemic). Get their earlyish if you want a table.
18 moradores locais recomendam
Brewfellas Beer Bar
7 Pigmalionos
18 moradores locais recomendam
Do you like IPAs? Howling Wolf and Johnny Cash? You’ll love Brew Fellas then, a one-of-a-kind, hole-in-the-wall pub on the Green Line that serves as the city’s craft beer ambassador and one of its only vendors. If you don’t like pickled eggs and peanuts, then order some real Mexican from across the street. They’ll deliver right to your table. Opens at 6 in the evening (pre-pandemic). Get their earlyish if you want a table.
If you’re in the new town and are craving something a little more upscale, the swanky Silver Star is the preferred watering hole of Nicosia’s upwardly mobile professionals. After you’ve had the perfect Hendricks gin and tonic, if you’re looking for something a little more decadent to cap the evening off with, walk around the corner to the Gouni (Wool) Amusement Bar at 2E Christodoulou Sozou and soak in the carefully crafted seediness of a Las Vegas lounge bar in the middle of Nicosia. Just don’t ask us what the name means.
17 moradores locais recomendam
Silver Star Wine Bar
44-46 Sofouli
17 moradores locais recomendam
If you’re in the new town and are craving something a little more upscale, the swanky Silver Star is the preferred watering hole of Nicosia’s upwardly mobile professionals. After you’ve had the perfect Hendricks gin and tonic, if you’re looking for something a little more decadent to cap the evening off with, walk around the corner to the Gouni (Wool) Amusement Bar at 2E Christodoulou Sozou and soak in the carefully crafted seediness of a Las Vegas lounge bar in the middle of Nicosia. Just don’t ask us what the name means.
Just adding this because Lost and Found is the only cocktail bar in Nicosia to have made it into the world’s top 50 bars. They tend to fill fast, so you may be drinking your Aperol Spritz sitting on an oil drum. And, as one patron lamented, they don’t accept American Express, so if you plan on drinking yourself silly, bring cash or your Visa.
28 moradores locais recomendam
Lost+Found Drinkery
28 moradores locais recomendam
Just adding this because Lost and Found is the only cocktail bar in Nicosia to have made it into the world’s top 50 bars. They tend to fill fast, so you may be drinking your Aperol Spritz sitting on an oil drum. And, as one patron lamented, they don’t accept American Express, so if you plan on drinking yourself silly, bring cash or your Visa.
Golem Brewhouse moved into the old Pivo Microbrewery sometime in 2021. I haven't tried any of the beer yet, but if it's anything like Pivo (and you like craft beer), you should give it a shot. (And let me know how it goes.) The brewery itself is a gorgeously renovated old mansion with tall timbered ceilings and white-washed walls.
Golem Brewhouse
Golem Brewhouse moved into the old Pivo Microbrewery sometime in 2021. I haven't tried any of the beer yet, but if it's anything like Pivo (and you like craft beer), you should give it a shot. (And let me know how it goes.) The brewery itself is a gorgeously renovated old mansion with tall timbered ceilings and white-washed walls.